The concha negra, bloody clam ceviche, at La Cevicheria at 3809 W. Pico Blvd. (La Cevicheria / February 28, 2013)
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Is ceviche poised to become as popular as sushi or sashimi in L.A.? It could happen. I'm thinking Ricardo Zarate is onto something as the Peruvian chef (Mo-Chica, Picca) gets ready to open a ceviche concept called Paiche. Raw seafood marinated in lime juice with chiles and cilantro and other elements suits a Southern California palate. It's cool and refreshing, packs in vibrant flavors and is light on the calories.
Picca, Peruvian Cantina
We've already gotten a taste of Zarate's ceviche style at Picca, his upscale cantina, where he has three (and sometimes more) ceviches on the menu. His flavors are sharp and focused, and each dish plays up the textures of the various seafood. He's not timid with the spicing either. Watch out for ceviche criollomade with chunks of sea bass with choclo (giant dried corn), bright orange sweet potato in a fiery leche de tigre ("tiger's milk") marinade. I love too the way halibut plays against crispy calamari and Japanese seaweed in his cevichecroccante.
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